Join the MRA | Member Login
Find a Professional
Sign Up Log In Add New Topic

TOPIC: Copper Roofs

Repair

Return to Copper Roofs

Return to Archive

Return to Forum

About two years ago I had a copper standing seam roof installed on an 80 square foot extension. The house is a brick row house with a timber framed extension. The installer fabricated and installed the roof. Since that time the ridge caps have worked loose and one essenntially blew off. The ridge caps were soldered down. Are there mechanical conectors that can be purchase or fabricated to hold the ridge caps in place? I have also noticed that water is getting behind the flashing at the interface of the house and the extension. The flashing is adhered in place with caulk, no mechanical connectors. Thanks
Guest User

1/29/2007
The soldering could not have ben ncompleted correctly as it is permenant when done correctly. As to the wall flashing it does need to be attached to the brick wall not the roof as there will be movement. Also watch that the brick could be absorbing water and leaking past the flashing from behind. I would try to get him back.
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.

1/30/2007
I tried.. Since it looks like I will be doing this myself can I ask for some input? Basically what is the procedure to tack the cap back down? How should I clean the copper? What flux? What solder? Tack every rib? Use an iron or a torch? For the flashing; should I cut a reglet and use lead? or mechanical conectors with a closed cell joint material between the flashing and the house. Should the flashing be caulked to the roof or left loose. Are there still coppersmiths to make the flashing? Should the flashing be one or two pieces, top and bottom pieces with some type of snap together connection? I read just enough to get myself in trouble.
Guest User

1/30/2007
Where are the experts?
Guest User

2/2/2007
To solder copper you must clean the surfaces. Use an emery cloth available from most hardware stores. Then use flux paste on the area. Safest bet is to use an iron to sloder. Make sure you are using straight solder. For the wall flashing, they do make plastic drive pin plugs to fasten flashings to masonry. You may want to try this first. The flashing should be bent out slightly at the top to create a reglet for the caulking.
Allan Reid
Dura-Loc Roofing Systems, Inc.

2/5/2007