I have a mid 70's 24x40 manufactured home with a 2/12 pitch. This roof has full length soffit venting. before I had the roof replaced I had insulation blown into the attic equal to R30. The insulation is not blocking the vents. It had a metal over comp. existing that I had replaced. It did not leak but was old.
The New roof was done with vapor barrier over the sheeting and 2x4 to stand off the metal roof. Now every time it rains I get water dripping out of my bathroom vents. ( If it rains 4 hours I get about a half cup of water dripping on the toilet.). The contractor has used large amounts of caulk around the vents and on numerous screws.
This is a dry climate that sees cold winters. Any ideas on how to take care of this would be great.
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if it only leaks when it rains that suggests a flashing problem. I assume the vents are up through the roof. How soon after it starts to rain does the dripping start? Can you post a close up of the flashing detail around the vent stack?
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It usually has to be raining for an hour or more. It seems like the water builds up on the vapor barrier and when it gets to a certain point it rolls over a lip and starts dripping. The contractor used NP1 urethane adhesive caulk to the panel seams so they can't be taken up to look at what the problem might be. Here's a photo of the vent.
Thanks
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Not sure who put that boot on but they need some lessons is sealant application.
I can't imagine, looking at the caulking, that the boot is done correctly.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
5/3/2015
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That's the second one the put on. It originally had a stove pipe style cap and the first time it rained I was told the water was bouncing off the roof and into the vent cap. So they made those brown boxes, replaced the boot and have added calk anytime they came up to "fix" the leak.
Now their telling me it's condensation. I'm worried about my insulation getting wet, but they basically glued the roof panels together so there is no way to check without taking the roof off. Oh yea, the other vent looks better and doesn't leak as much but it does leak.
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the contractor has created a dam. no amount of caulking will prevent the leaking long term. I will provide a detail later this week that will eliminate this problem.
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Thank's again for the reply. Looking at the detail it refers to butyl tape and I've seen it referred to in roofing install instructions. What is it and does it allow the panels to be separated if necessary ?
My contractor basically glued my roof panels together so I'm concerned about my attic insulation being wet after a year and a half of leaking.
also in the detail it doesn't show any kind of collar or boot around the vent. Does this mean I don't need one ?
Once again, if you could e-mail me this info. (our conversation and the detail) it would be a huge help.
Kelly Howard
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It must be the flashing problem according to me, can be done easily but for that you must hire a professional and ask them to check and fix the leakage issue.
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I have a 14x70 swmh with metal walls and roof that has been gutted and is now going back together. I had some roof seams that were leaking and repaired them with Gaco roof tape followed by three coats of Gaco roof coating on the entire roof. The interior had no insulation so I was able to verify the leaks were cured. However, I recently insulated using Owens-Corning kraft-faced insulation; R13 for the walls, R30 for the ceiling. The ceiling is a combination of vaulted and flat. Where it's vaulted, there is no air gap between the ceiling and insulation but where it's flat there is an air gap. I am now seeing moisture on the insulation facing where the flat and vaulted sections meet. There was no rain when this was discovered; in fact it was dry at 9 in the morning but damp by noon. This is on a very hot and humid day. No A/C was being used so there was certainly no cool air present. Is this a condensation issue and if so how do I alleviate it?
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/1/2018
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I followed the link you sent -- thank you very much. So I need to install drywall and then seal it at the places they recommend. But can I do that if the insulation is damp? Doesn't it have to be dried out first?
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Needs to be dried out. You need to condition that space and get it dried out first and be sure there is no moisture behind it.
Eric Novotny An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/1/2018
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Have you ever seen this happen before? We've been reading a lot trying to find out what's going on and we're getting a lot of conflicting information. We just want to be sure we address the true cause of the issue before we go any further.
Here are some of the photos we took once we found it wet.
Just a reminder, it was dry at 9am and wet by noon. It didn't rain at all today.
We just finished insulation last week and we saw no problems at that time. We even went to the trailer twice during heavy storms to look for leaks well before we put insulation up.
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Have you ever seen this happen before? We've been reading a lot trying to find out what's going on and we're getting a lot of conflicting information. We just want to be sure we address the true cause of the issue before we go any further.
Here are some of the photos we took once we found it wet.
Just a reminder, it was dry at 9am and wet by noon. It didn't rain at all today.
We just finished insulation last week and we saw no problems at that time. We even went to the trailer twice during heavy storms to look for leaks well before we put insulation up.
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If warm moist air reaches a cool surface, it will condense. What's happening is that warm moist air is reaching the cold back side of the home's exterior and condensing. Avoiding condensation requires at least two of the following three things, and preferably all three: Vapor Barrier, Insulation, Ventilation.
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But that's not what's happening. There's no cool surface. In fact, the roof was quite hot when the problem surfaced. The inside air was humid to be sure but it too was very warm. At least 90° F. I don't understand how condensation can cause that big a damp area.
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Interesting. As I recall, at 90 degrees, if humidity is 65%, condensation will occur. Your photos didn't post for some reason. I am sorry. Would you wish to email them to me at [email protected]
5/2/2015
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It must be the flashing problem according to me, can be done easily but for that you must hire a professional and ask them to check and fix the leakage issue.
1
5/3/2018
I have a 14x70 swmh with metal walls and roof that has been gutted and is now going back together. I had some roof seams that were leaking and repaired them with Gaco roof tape followed by three coats of Gaco roof coating on the entire roof. The interior had no insulation so I was able to verify the leaks were cured. However, I recently insulated using Owens-Corning kraft-faced insulation; R13 for the walls, R30 for the ceiling. The ceiling is a combination of vaulted and flat. Where it's vaulted, there is no air gap between the ceiling and insulation but where it's flat there is an air gap. I am now seeing moisture on the insulation facing where the flat and vaulted sections meet. There was no rain when this was discovered; in fact it was dry at 9 in the morning but damp by noon. This is on a very hot and humid day. No A/C was being used so there was certainly no cool air present. Is this a condensation issue and if so how do I alleviate it?
6/1/2018
Bill,
The ceiling needs an air barrier via drywall or some other sort of seamless air barrier.
https://buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/1/2018
I followed the link you sent -- thank you very much. So I need to install drywall and then seal it at the places they recommend. But can I do that if the insulation is damp? Doesn't it have to be dried out first?
6/1/2018
Needs to be dried out. You need to condition that space and get it dried out first and be sure there is no moisture behind it.
An informed customer is the Best Customer!
6/1/2018
Have you ever seen this happen before? We've been reading a lot trying to find out what's going on and we're getting a lot of conflicting information. We just want to be sure we address the true cause of the issue before we go any further.
Here are some of the photos we took once we found it wet.
Just a reminder, it was dry at 9am and wet by noon. It didn't rain at all today.
We just finished insulation last week and we saw no problems at that time. We even went to the trailer twice during heavy storms to look for leaks well before we put insulation up.
6/1/2018
Have you ever seen this happen before? We've been reading a lot trying to find out what's going on and we're getting a lot of conflicting information. We just want to be sure we address the true cause of the issue before we go any further.
Here are some of the photos we took once we found it wet.
Just a reminder, it was dry at 9am and wet by noon. It didn't rain at all today.
We just finished insulation last week and we saw no problems at that time. We even went to the trailer twice during heavy storms to look for leaks well before we put insulation up.
6/2/2018
If warm moist air reaches a cool surface, it will condense. What's happening is that warm moist air is reaching the cold back side of the home's exterior and condensing. Avoiding condensation requires at least two of the following three things, and preferably all three: Vapor Barrier, Insulation, Ventilation.
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
6/2/2018
But that's not what's happening. There's no cool surface. In fact, the roof was quite hot when the problem surfaced. The inside air was humid to be sure but it too was very warm. At least 90° F. I don't understand how condensation can cause that big a damp area.
6/2/2018
Interesting. As I recall, at 90 degrees, if humidity is 65%, condensation will occur. Your photos didn't post for some reason. I am sorry. Would you wish to email them to me at [email protected]
Isaiah Industries, Inc.
6/2/2018